Workshop how-tos · 79Bike · Sur-Ron · Talaria
How to replace brake pads on an electric dirt bike (Falcon, Sur-Ron, Talaria)
Brakes work harder on an electric bike than on a petrol one: there's no comparable engine braking, and the battery adds mass to slow down. Pads with less than 1.5 mm of friction material mean longer stopping distances and a damaged disc. Replacement takes about 20 minutes per wheel.
When to replace the pads
- Friction material under 1.5 mm (excluding the backing plate): replace immediately.
- Metallic grinding when braking: the pad may be worn through and the backing plate is touching the disc.
- The lever comes closer to the bar than before (with the brakes properly bled).
- Contaminated pads (oil, brake fluid, chain lube): replace them, even if new — they can't be saved.
Check thickness once a month, with a torch, from the top of the caliper.
Choosing the right pad
The shape depends on the caliper, so on the model (and sometimes the year). On 79Bike, the reference differs between Falcon Pro, Falcon GT and Falcon Lite. Many Sur-Ron and Talaria calipers take the Shimano H03C pad shape. Sintered (metallic) pads handle heat and mud better; organic pads are more progressive but wear faster off-road. If in doubt, send us a photo of your caliper.
The trap: pushing the pistons back
New pads are thicker, so the pistons must be pushed back into the caliper. Do it with a plastic tyre lever or a dedicated tool, never with a screwdriver directly on the piston. Watch the master cylinder reservoir: fluid rises and can overflow. Never squeeze the brake lever with the pads removed: the pistons would pop out of the caliper.
Bedding in: essential
New pads don't brake at 100% straight away. On a clear straight, do 10 to 15 progressive stops from 30 to 10 km/h without locking the wheel, then let them cool. Avoid emergency stops for the first 20 km. If the brake squeals afterwards, read our squeaky brakes guide.
Tools you need
- Allen or Torx key (depending on caliper)
- Fine pliers (retaining pin)
- Plastic tyre lever or piston press
- Brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol
- Clean rag, nitrile gloves
- Torque wrench
Step-by-step procedure
- 1
Secure the bike
Bike switched off and stable on a stand. Wear gloves: grease from your fingers contaminates pads.
- 2
Remove the old pads
Remove the retaining pin or bolt, then slide the pads out. On some calipers you need to unbolt the caliper from its bracket (two bolts).
- 3
Clean the caliper
Spray brake cleaner on the caliper and disc and wipe. Check the pistons and disc thickness.
- 4
Push the pistons back
Push the pistons back squarely with a plastic tool while watching the fluid reservoir level.
- 5
Fit the new pads
Install the pads and anti-rattle spring the right way round, then refit the pin or bolt and its clip.
- 6
Refit the caliper
If removed, refit the caliper to the manual's torque (thread locker if specified).
- 7
Pump and check
Pump the lever until normal travel returns. Spin the wheel by hand: the brake must not drag.
- 8
Bed in
Do 10–15 progressive low-speed stops before riding normally.
Useful genuine parts
In stock, shipped in 3–10 business days.
FAQ
How long do brake pads last?+
It varies a lot: a few hundred kilometres in muddy enduro, over 2,000 km on the road. Check thickness monthly rather than relying on mileage.
Should I replace the disc at the same time?+
Not always. Replace it if it's below its minimum thickness (engraved on the disc), warped, cracked or deeply scored (if the backing plate has been rubbing).
The lever feels soft after the change. Is that normal?+
Pump it several times so the pistons come back into contact. If it stays soft or spongy, there's air in the system and the brake needs bleeding.
Key takeaways
Check thickness monthly, replace under 1.5 mm, work clean with gloves, push the pistons back with a plastic tool and always bed in new pads.
Need a hand?
Our workshop in Toulouse Sud (France) services 79Bike, Sur-Ron and Talaria. Send us a photo or video of the problem.
Related guides
These guides are for information only. If in doubt about a safety-critical part (brakes, steering, wheels), have a professional do the work. Always follow the manufacturer's manual.